In my French Bistro cooking class this past week, we made this amazing Chicken Liver Mousse – the classic taste of Paris in the Fall.

Chicken Liver Mousse on Croutons

Serve on crunchy Croutons as a pre-dinner nibble with a late burgundy and be transported to the boulevards of Paris.

Chicken Liver Mousse

Ingredients
300 gm chicken livers
3 tbsp flour
salt and pepper to taste
3 tbsp olive oil
1 red onion, diced
1 apple, cored and chopped
2 garlic cloves, diced
3 tbsp triple sec
4 tsp fresh thyme leaves
100 gm cream cheese
zest of 1 orange
1 apple, sliced in crescents

Method
1.    Preheat oven to 200 C.
2.    Dust the chicken livers with flour, salt and pepper and set aside.
3.    Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan and sear the livers on each side for about 3 minutes. Add the onions, apples and garlic. Cook for 3 minutes. Deglaze the pan with triple sec.
4.    Place the liver mixture into the oven for 10 minutes to cook through.
5.    Remove the mixture from the oven and bring to room temperature.
6.    Put in a food processor with the fresh thyme, cream cheese, orange rind and pepper to taste. Blend till smooth. Add a bit more cream cheese if you want a smoother consistency.
7.    Serve on croutons with a slice of apple and a bit of orange zest on each.

Note: This dish can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 4-5 days. If you want a bolder orange flavour, add a bit more triple sec or use Cointreau.

Serves 8-10 for canapes

Salami Pie (sliced open)

My mother, like many women of her vintage, rarely ever used written recipes or standard measures, and had a finely tuned sense of when a mixture was “right”. Unfortunately most of us don’t have that ability and may never know the delights she produced. Fortunately for me, I have a very talented brother, Ralph, who loves to cook and has lovingly worked through our mother’s recipes into writing, standard measures and methods the rest of us can understand so that she and her food can be remembered always. [I am thinking of incorporating some of these into my Italian cooking class in Sydney - what do you think?]

Recently Ralph sent me a collection of his versions of my mother’s Easter recipes, including Salami Pie, which I translated into Australian and happily share with you below.  I know it may sound over the top (Well, that’s because it is!), but it is one of those things that once you eat a slice you will want more and more.  So making it just once a year at Easter is probably a good thing for your health, if not your appetite! I’m looking forward to making this tomorrow. Thank you dear brother for making these delicious memories real for me again; you are a star!  And that is what family is all about!

Salami Pie

Ingredients

Filling
220 gm pepperoni
220 gm boiled ham
220 gm salami (hard or Genoa)
110 gm capicola
110 gm prosciutto
220 gm Farmers cheese
220 gm fresh mozzarella
1 cup grated parmesan cheese
2 tbsp chopped garlic
2 tbsp black pepper
11-12 eggs, beaten

Crust
4 cups all purpose flour (unbleached preferred)
1 tbsp baking powder
3 tbsp solid vegetable shortening (e.g. Crisco) or butter
1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp salt
6 eggs, plus 1 egg
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp water as needed to make smooth, pliable dough

Method

1. Start by making the crust using a large mixer with the dough hook. Combine the dry ingredients, then cut in shortening, olive oil and 6 eggs. Add enough water to make smooth, pliable dough.
2. Turn out onto your bench and kneed for about 5-8 minutes to make nice, pliable dough.
3. Cut the dough into two pieces; one consisting of 2/3 of the dough and the other of 1/3. Roll out the larger piece to about to ¼ inch thick. This takes some heavy rolling, but it’s important the dough not be too thick.
4. Use vegetable shortening to coat a 7-8 cm deep heavy oven proof pan such as an iron skillet.
5. Lay the rolled dough into the pan, and shape to the pan as you would a pie crust. Cut off excess dough above the height of pan.
6. Cube all the meats and cheeses and combine with the remaining ingredients. Add in the beaten eggs and combine well. Pour the filling into the crust and pack down eliminating any air.
7. Roll out the remaining dough to about 6mm thick. Place this over the filling. Push down on top crust to force any remaining air out. Brush the connecting parts of the top and bottom crusts with a little water to help stick them together, and seal the edge of the crust.
8. Bake at 200 C for 10 minutes. Beat the remaining egg lightly. Brush the crust of the pie with egg, reduce the temperature to 180 C, and bake for an additional 1 hour. Check after 50 minutes to be sure pie is not overdone. Insert a knife into the pie to check for doneness. The pie is done when the knife comes out dry.

For another of my mother’s wonderful recipes, check out my interpretation of her Italian Red Gravy.

Buon appetito!

Balsamic Caramel Drizzled Figs with Ricotta

Ingredients

8 figs

150 gm raw sugar

6 thin strips orange rind

¼ cup, plus 1 tbsp water

1 tbsp aged balsamic vinegar

160 gm fresh ricotta

Method

1. Cut a bit off the bottom of each fig if necessary so it sits flat. Cut an “X” vertically down from the top of the fig to about the middle. Place the figs in an ovenproof dish, just large enough to hold them.
2. In a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat, combine the sugar, orange rind and water. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Bring the mixture to a boil without stirring until it turns a deep golden caramel colour.
3. Remove from the heat and immediately stir in the balsamic and 1 tbsp of water, taking care as you do so, as the mixture will spit violently.
4. Return the pan to the heat and stir until the mixture is smooth. Pour over and into the figs.
5. Spoon 1 tbsp of ricotta into the centre of each fig. Press the sections together a bit to push the ricotta onto the flesh.
6. Bake at 180C for 10-15 minutes or until the figs are just warmed through. Carefully transfer the warm figs to shallow bowls. Spoon the remaining balsamic caramel from the baking dish over them. Serve immediately.

Serves 4

Tamales, sometimes called “little bundles of joy”, are usually filled with corn masa (masa harina) which is a very fine maize made from dried corn cooked with calcium oxide (known as lime water when hydrated). I have also seen these aromatic packages filled with mashed beans, quinoa (a grain), seafood and vegetables. They can be coloured with different varieties of corn maize or enlivened with chilli purées.

Tamales are a timeless food of Mexico, the American Southwest, Central and South America. Everywhere they are made differently and the flavours are unique. In the American Southwest and northern Mexico, tamales are stuffed and wrapped in dried corn husks – which have been soaked in water to make them pliable – then tied and steamed. In southern Mexico and Central America, banana leaves are most common as a wrapping. I have also seen tamales wrapped in avocado leaves and fresh corn husks. Other ingredients that make up a tamale are some liquid – usually stock, water or milk – and some type of fat. Lard is the fat of choice in Mexico, but vegetable shortening can also be used. The secret to light-textured tamales is to let the dough rest for one hour before preparing the tamales. The following recipe is a basic one to which you can add any filling you like, such as shredded roasted duck or chicken, or goat’s cheese. For a sweet version, add a pinch of salt, substitute milk for chicken stock, omit the corn and flavour with coconut. One of my favourite ways to enjoy them is simply with the fresh and zesty Pico de Gallo, which plays so well with the earthy flavour of the masa.

Roasted Corn Tamales

Roasted Corn Tamales with “Pico De Gallo”

Pico De Gallo

Ingredients

6 small roma tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped

1 jalapeño chilli, seeded and finely chopped

½ red capsicum, finely chopped

½ green capsicum, finely chopped

½ Spanish onion, finely chopped

¼ cup coarsely chopped coriander

Juice of 1 lime

Method

1. For Pico de Gallo, combine all ingredients in a small bowl, season to taste and mix well.

Tamales

Ingredients

1 ear corn, husk and silks removed

1¾ cups masa harina (see note)

1¼ cups hot water

1½ tsp salt

1 tsp baking powder

¼ cup cold chicken stock

250 gm cold lard or vegetable shortening, chopped

12 dried corn husks (see note)

Method

1. Char-grill or barbecue corn, turning occasionally, until the kernels are slightly browned. Cool, then cut kernels from the cob.
2. Place masa harina in the bowl of a food processor or electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment. With the motor running, gradually add the water in a slow, steady stream until the dough forms into a ball. Process for 1 minute further, then transfer the dough to a clean bowl, cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
3. Combine salt, baking powder and chicken stock in a small bowl, mix well and set aside. Return masa harina dough to a clean food processor bowl and process for 3 minutes.
4. With the motor running, gradually add the lard or shortening, about 50 gm at a time. Continue processing for another 3 minutes or until smooth and light, stopping the food processor occasionally to scrape down sides of bowl. If using mixer use a medium speed to whip the dough so more air is put through it and the dough is light and fluffy.
5. With motor running, gradually add stock mixture in a steady stream and process until incorporated, then process 2 minutes further. Remove bowl from processor and stir in corn kernels (dough will be very soft). Spoon dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap, wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour or until firm.
6. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and stand for 20 minutes, or until at room temperature. Meanwhile, soak the dried corn husks in warm water for 20 minutes.
7. Lay the husks flat on absorbent paper and pat dry. Select 8 of the largest and most perfect husks and set aside. Tear 2 remaining husks lengthwise into sixteen 3mm-wide strips and set aside for tying tamales. Lay out the reserved corn husks on a flat surface. Divide the dough into 8 portions and place a portion on each husk, then spread the dough evenly in each husk, leaving a 2.5 cm border around husk edge. If the husks are too small to contain the dough, use two husks per tamale. If adding a filling, spread the filling on top of the masa dough. Bring the sides of each husk together and roll to completely enclose the dough. Tie a corn husk “ribbon” around each end to secure closed. It may be necessary to tie 2 ribbons at each end to secure firmly.
8. Place the tamales in the top of a steamer, seam-side down, cover with a tight-fitting lid and steam over simmering water for 25-30 minutes, adding more boiling water as necessary, or until tamales are just firm to the touch. Stand the tamales for 5 minutes before serving with Pico de Gallo.

Serves 4 as an entrée or light lunch.

Note : Masa harina and dried corn husks are available from Monterey Foods and Fireworks Food in Sydney and Aztec Products in Melbourne. See my blog posts on these and other specialty suppliers.

Barbecued vegetable ratatouille on the Evo grill

Barbecued Ratatouille

Ingredients

2 medium zucchini

2 medium yellow squash, halved lengthwise

2 Japanese eggplants, halved lengthwise

2 medium red onions, quartered

2 medium red capsicums, stemmed, seeded, and quartered

2 medium green capsicums, stemmed, seeded, and quartered

16 cherry or small tomatoes

½ cup, plus 2 tbsp olive oil

salt and pepper

4 cloves, garlic crushed

3 tbsp finely chopped oregano

¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

Method

1. Preheat barbecue to medium high.
2. Place zucchini, squash, eggplants, onions, capsicums and tomatoes in a large shallow baking dish, add ½ cup of olive oil, and toss to coat.
3. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.
4. Shake the vegetables a bit before placing on the barbecue. Place on the barbecue and cook for 5-7 minutes with the lid open. Halfway through the cooking time, turn the vegetables and remove the tomatoes from the barbecue and put them in a large bowl.
5. Cover the barbecue and cook the remaining vegetables until almost cooked through, about 2-3 minutes.
6. Transfer the vegetables to a cutting board and chop coarsely. Combine with the tomatoes, add the remaining olive oil, garlic, oregano and parsley, and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Note: Make sure you understand the hot spots on the barbecue and do not burn the vegetables. Rotate the vegetables as needed to cook evenly.

You can also use other fresh vegetables and fresh basil if you like.

Serves 8-10

The tomatillo is related to the Cape Gooseberry. The firm, pale green flesh is surrounded by a paper-like husk. As the fruit matures, the husk will go from ‘sticky tape’ to ‘papery’, drying out and usually splitting open. A staple of Mexican cuisine, the fruit has a tart, melon flavour when young and bright green, but as it matures to a more yellowish colour it takes on a profound sweetness and lemon-balm flavour which adds amazing zip to sauces and salads. Have fun using it for the different flavours as it matures.

The tomatillo is used widely in South America and Mexico. Australians, who are not usually connoisseurs of the cuisines, don’t know this fruit very well and it’s not widely available. But, you can grow your own, it’s easy and a delightful treat. They store well out of the husk in sealed plastic bags for a few weeks and you can even slice and freeze them. If it’s not available fresh, you can buy it tinned; the flavour is a little different than fresh, but it still gives you that wonderful mixture of tart and sweet and makes your taste buds want for more.

Once you learn to use this wonderful fruit, it brings a whole new dimension to your culinary repertoire. Check out my tomatillo chipotle salsa recipe and your fish tacos or barbecued chicken will never be the same again. This salsa provides a counterpoint to bland and rich foods with its sweet & sour, astringent, green-plum flavour. It is delicious on a piece of mild cheese, chicken breast or barbecued meat.

Tomatillo Chipotle Salsa

Ingredients

8 tomatillos, husked, chopped

1 jalapeno chilli, with seeds, chopped

1 tsp chipotle chilli puree

1 small handful coriander leaves

¼ cup water

½ small white onion, diced

¼ tsp sea salt

Method

1. Put the tomatillos, chillies, coriander, and water in a blender and blend until very smooth.  Pour into a medium-sized non-reactive bowl, and stir in the onion and salt.  Use the same day as made.

Makes about 2 cups

Tequila Cured Salmon

Tequila Cured Salmon

Ingredients

1 side salmon fillet, skin on (about 2 kg)

150 gm hot mustard

3 tbsp chipotle chilli puree

½ cup chopped coriander

½ cup dill seed

3 tbsp cumin seed

5 limes, zested

1½ cups rock salt

2½ cups brown sugar

1 cup tequila

1 bunch coriander (whole stalks)

¼ bunch dill, for garnish

Method

1. Lay cling film sufficient to wrap the salmon onto a baking sheet. The baking sheet needs to have at least 10mm depth as liquid will accumulate. Place the salmon on top of the cling film, skin down.
2. In a mixing bowl, blend the mustard and chipotle chilli puree. Spread evenly over the salmon.
3. In a mixing bowl, combine the chopped coriander, dill seed, cumin seed, and zest. Sprinkle evenly over the salmon, pressing into the mustard/chipotle mix.
4. In a mixing bowl, combine the salt, brown sugar and tequila. Cover the salmon with the mixture, pressing lightly.
5. Lay the whole stalks of coriander on top of the salmon.
6. Wrap the cling film around the salmon to keep the curing marinade close to the flesh. The tighter the better; keeping air out and mix in.
7. Place another flat tray or board on top of the salmon and add about 2kg of weight to help open the flesh and press the curing marinade into the salmon. Refrigerate for about 18 hours.
8. Remove from the fridge, unwrap and scrape off the curing ingredients. The fish should have a raw, translucent appearance and a soft texture. If the colour is pale pink, the curing has gone on for too long and the fish is “cooked”. This is unfortunate, but the fish will still be delicious.
9. Slice the salmon across the grain paper-thin, garnish with sprigs of dill and serve.

Note:   After slicing, you can mist the salmon with a light spray of tequila for more flavour. Serve with dill mustard sauce or horseradish cream, with blue corn chips, croutons, or your favourite crunchy bread.

Serves 10-12 as entrée or stand up canapé

For the past few months I have been part of the team at Clover Food Truck located on MIT’s campus.

Clover Food Truck

Clover is bringing a new type of “fast food” to Boston. The “fast food” is made from locally sourced ingredients, is completely vegetarian, and when possible, organic!

Working on the food truck has allowed me to learn about the Food Truck movement in the American northeast. Consumers are educating themselves on how important food is, regarding are health. Americans are demanding healthier and fresher foods more and more. Our food truck seeks to meet this growing demand by preparing and cooking vegetarian food right before your eyes!

Potatoes are cut and fried per order and sandwiches are prepared fresh. Sandwiches are creative vegetarian and vegan plays on BLT’s, BBQ, and other classics. All utensils and cups are compostable and the restaurant composts on-site.

It has been great to be part of the growing Food Truck Craze in Boston, and it is great to continue working to provide fresh food while cleaning and ‘greening’ our planet!

Morena is owned by chef Alejandro Saravia and his business partner Sumedh Kataria, an architect, who did the interior design.  It is a dream come true for Alejandro, who hails from Peru, which is known for some of the most sophisticated restaurants in the world.

Arriving at Morena, in the St. Margaret’s complex in Surry Hills, make sure you notice the entrance with its lovely herb garden in the front window. This lets you know someone is paying close attention to where the food is coming from. The dining room is small and minimal in its look but has a casual warmth about it. The coloured classic fabric for the banquettes has been chosen to add a bit of splash to the room and give you a sophisticated South American flair.

Service was casual but prompt and efficient on the night we dined here. The music was perfect for the setting; I dreamed I was back in Brazil a few times, hearing familiar female Brazilian singers inviting me to visit another life. It created a bit of sway in the room without overstepping the food, which was the star.

Pisco sours were first to hit the table. They are not to be missed, with their frothy egg white topping and perfect sweet and sour balance. Pisco is a colourless or yellowish-to-amber coloured grape brandy produced in winemaking regions of Chile and Peru. I could have drunk more of these, but was holding out for a South American red.

The meal started with Peruvian ceviche with pink snapper, cancha (toasted corn) and caramelised sweet potato. The tender freshness of the snapper with the crunch of the cancha gave this dish an elegant flavour and texture. (I love ceviche. It is perfect for the Australian summer, made from fresh seafood  combined with various ingredients and marinated in lime or other citrus juices thus ‘cooking’ in their own juices. I make one in my Modern Mexican cooking class using mango, tomato, red onion and lime to set it off.)

We also tried the causas three ways. Causas are chilled potato, with wonderful toppings, like octopus. The creaminess of the potatoes against the crunchy toppings made this one of my favourites. (At Rattlesnake Grill, we used blue conga potatoes in a variation of this dish, highlighting the nearly endless variety of potatoes on offer in South America.)

For our mains we couldn’t go past the Escabeche de pato, duck breast marinated in annatto seeds and aji mirasol chillies. Escabeche is another acidic marinade (using, for example vinegar), which gives the meat an intense flavour. This method is used in a variety of cuisines, especially in South America. Asado con chimichurri played well on the tenderness of charcoal cooked short ribs against the punch of the chimichurri (parsley and garlic marinade), ensuring a great combination of high and deep flavours. Morena’s addition of a beet salad and smoked salt flakes rounded out this lovely dish. Finally the Seco de alpaca backstrap hit the table, served with a traditional coriander and beer sauce, celeriac puree and Peruvian style carapulcra (a Peruvian Andean dish of stewed dried potatoes). I am familiar with llama from my travels in Argentina; I found alpaca richer / fattier and a bit more flavourful.

We didn’t have much room for dessert but still couldn’t go past the Tres leches, which seems to jump out from everywhere when travelling in South America. It’s a traditional sponge cake soaked in three kinds of milk, served here with roasted pineapple ice cream. It’s moreish and brings the journey of South American flavours to a pleasant close.

Morena also serves piquedos (share plates) in its outside area, which might include some of your favourites like duck empanadas, cassava and manchego croquettes, baby sardines and 30-day cured Peruvian jamon. Whether for a light snack, with a Pisco sour of course, or a dinner, with excellent local ingredients, you can have a choice of different experiences.

What I love about Morena is it’s chef-owned, passionate, experimental, conscious of what a restaurant should be, trying to bring something new to the Australian palate, and doing an admirable job of it, without the shtick!

Morena

15/425 Bourke St.

Surry Hills, Australia 2010

e: bookings@morena.com.au

p: +61405 902 896

Argentine chimichurri sauce on flank steak

There are generally two types of chimichurri, one uses dried herbs while the other uses fresh; both use oil as the medium. Serve this as a condiment for barbecued meats for a great flavour lift, or use as a marinade for chicken or meat. This ‘fresh herb’ version was inspired by Francis Mallman, who is considered one of the best chefs in Argentina and an international ambassador for Argentine cooking. Chimichurri can be made in a blender instead of whisking by hand for a smoother consistency. Play with the textures – try it in a variety of consistencies for look and flavour. For best results, especially with dry herbs, prepare one day in advance so the flavours blend.

Argentine chimichurri sauce - by hand

Ingredients

1 cup water

1 tbsp coarse salt

8 cloves garlic, peeled, minced finely

1 cup flat leaf parsley leaves, chopped finely

1 cup fresh oregano leaves, chopped finely

2 tsp dried red chilli, crushed

¼ cup red wine vinegar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Method

1. Bring the water to a boil in a small saucepan.
2. Add the salt. Stir to dissolve. Remove from heat to cool.
3. In a medium bowl, put the garlic, parsley, oregano and chillies.
4. Whisk in the red wine vinegar, then the olive oil, then the salt water.
5. Transfer to a jar with a tight fitting lid. Store in the fridge for 2-3 weeks.

Makes 2 cups

Argentine Chimichurri Sauce - blended